She was climbing next to Patrycja Chudziak of Poland and both were aiming to get to the finals. © 1996-2015 National Geographic Society, © 2015- Brad and I started trying again this September once he’d healed. The routes are arranged west to east, that is from the West Face to the East Buttress. What inspired you guys to chase the speed record for the Nose? Han's last speed record on The Nose was accomplished with Alex Honnold for climbing The Nose in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), on June 17, … If the Empire State Building and Chrysler Building were stacked next to it, the Nose would loom above them for another 10 stories. Every season I’ve been in the [Yosemite] Valley, I’ve sought new adventures. Who: Hans Florine and Peter Croft. World Records for Penny-Farthing Bicycles - from a quarter-mile to 24 hours. I was lured in by the speed record because it was such a different type of challenge. 19th October 2019. Eventually we settled on doing long runouts, so we practiced the dangerous sections until we could do them safely. JR: “Hard” comes in a few varieties up there: scary stuff, time-consuming stuff, and physical challenges. It made me question what we were doing. And she did it with a broken finger. PREPARED BY IFSC Sport Department . What did you guys do on top after Brad tagged the tree? She set a new world record in her qualification round win, with a time of 6.964 seconds. The first time I came to Yosemite, I wanted to get on it. Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell introduce us to one of the most coveted prizes in the climbing world: the speed record on The Nose route up the 915m El Capitan in Yosemite, California. We really relied on free-climbing and avoided questionable gear. Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright complete a speed climb up the Nose on El Capitan. I trust Jim—he communicates when he’s concerned. Everest speed climbing record-claims are time-unverified, meaning that there were no people who timed the speed climbs from the start to the summit. Honnold—the first and only climber to free solo El Capitan—holds multiple speed climbing records, and Florine has set the speed record on the Nose eight times. JR: We mainly simul-climbed. BG: We're both pretty bold, but we also know our limits and when to draw the line. Time: 4h 22m. For me, parts of the “Great Roof,” “Pancake Flake,” and “Glowering Spot” were the most physically demanding. Most climbers considered Honnold and Florine’s time unbeatable. 30th April 2017 . For four years he served as the executive director … “I don't think the record will last long, but it's nice to get the race started again.”. Its nice to run a quick lap on it when I'm going into or out of The Valley. Then, last February, Brad broke one of his ankles while climbing near Vegas. Auch Speed-Climber entdeckten The Nose. JR: No crying or hugging, but I screamed a bit. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964) is an American rock climber, who holds the record for the number of ascents of Yosemite Valleys El Capitan and is known for holding the speed record on The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan 8 different times. Gobright, a professional climber, and Reynolds, a member of the Yosemite Search and Rescue team, began working the Nose together in spring of 2016. BG: We were nervous because a week earlier, our friend Quinn took a big fall on the route and got very injured. An incredible feat achieved in the semi-final against Bassa Mawem of France. What was your strategy for shaving down time? Marcin Dzienski took the bronze medal, winning the small final in 5.596 seconds for a new men’s European record. Do you think you’ll try to break your own record? 7.10. Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Once we broke into the 2:20s, we knew that any small mistake could blow an attempt. Did you tweak it during practice? On Saturday, Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds scaled its most iconic route, the Nose, in 2:19:44, breaking the 2012 speed record set by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine by nearly four minutes. BG: There was no one up there. I play the mandolin, too. By accepting cookies you can optimise your browsing experience. Austrian mountaineer Christian Stangl has claimed a new speed record for climbing 18,506-foot Mt. To the best of my knowledge, these are the most up to date speed climbing records for on the Big Stone, Yosemite's incomparable El Capitan! As governed by the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing), speed climbing involves an explosive race up a 15m tall wall. Climbing the “Stovelegs” was exhausting, too. What was the last thing you did on the ground before starting your climb? Naturally, I give a little extra attention to the greatest rock climbing route in the world. 26th April 2019. Racers compete against each other side by side in order to reach the top and ‘ring the bell’ fastest.Speed Climbing is a combination of strength and precision. Aries Susanti Rahayu (INA) - IFSC World Cup Xiamen, China. After each attempt, we walked down the back of El Capitan and discussed improvements. Reza Alipour set the current Men’s Speed Climbing World recordof 5.48 seconds on the 30th of April 2017 at the Nanjing event of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. Stangl raced up the mountain in 5 hours 18 minutes, starting from the Azau ski area at 7,150 feet—that’s more than 2,100 vertical feet an hour, the first two-thirds on skis and the rest with crampons. Women's speed climbing record was smashed. I think I'm moving to Las Vegas for the winter to climb in the desert. A few minutes after 9:00 a.m. PDT, Gobright pulled himself over the lip of El Capitan and raced to the nearby tree which marks the finish. There were dozens of spots where I could have fallen over 100 feet, and plenty of ledges to strike. BG: It came down to extreme detail on certain moves and gear placements. BG: I'm not going to try again—it's really dangerous. Hans Florine is a professional climber, writer, photographer, and outdoor guide who holds numerous speed records in outdoor climbing, from sport routes to alpine ascents. “We had discussed bailing that morning,” says Reynolds. Usually, 80 percent of the climbers on the Nose are Europeans. I've descended El Cap so many times … now I'm going to do some mountain biking and safe climbing. This competition marked Iran’s first IFSC Gold medal. “We didn’t know how many more laps we had left in us, and there were a lot of climbing parties on the wall.”. Rahayu set a new women's speed climbing record at 6.995 seconds, also being the first woman to break the 7 second mark. The Rostrum is my all time favorite free solo. In April 2019, YiLing Song from China set the women’s record … Kaplina has set the speed record multiple times. Unless we were on a difficult section, we kept a ton of slack in the rope. Brad short-fixed me on the first four pitches, and I fixed him on a lot of the higher ones. The first speed ascent of the route was set in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay, with a time of 17 hours and 45 minutes. We just sprawled out for a few minutes without speaking. 22nd July 2017. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) - The World Games 2017, Wroclaw, Poland . We only climbed as fast as we could safely justify. Also, none of the climbers used alternate, objective, time-verification methods, such as GPS technology. Reza Alipour Shenazandifard (Persian: رضا علیپور شنازندی فرد ‎, born 29 َApril 1994) is an Iranian speed climber from Qazvin.He is titled the Asiatic cheetah (Genius) and the "Vertical World's Fastest Man." 1992 – The benchmark. Jim Reynolds: El Capitan has always been so inspiring to me. Aries Susanti Rahayu has set a new speed climbing world record. Speedklettern ist eine der drei Hauptdisziplinen des wettkampfmäßigen Sportkletterns. World record lists for rope climb. The last time she held the record was in 2017 until in April of that year YiLing Song got 7.101 seconds at the IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing. In 2013 at the World Cup in Haiyang, China, he broke the world record and registered 06.24 seconds to win the first gold medal in speed climbing in Iranian history. Blog archive 2020 (29) November (3) Roglic wins La Vuelta on the windy Covatilla; New Angliru TOP 50: Fast new generation arrives ; Ultra-mythical Hugh Carthy conquers the Angliru! The pair broke the previous record, set in 2010 by Dean Potter and Sean Leary, by almost 13 minutes. This time, Honnold returned to El Capitan to climb the nose and regain the speed record. I returned to Yosemite in April, put in some relaxed laps, and those helped me learn the route’s intricacies. All Mt. We made a great team, so we set a huge challenge. Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) – IFSC World … JR: Brad is an animal, especially at free-climbing. Ekaterina Barashchuk took gold over Elizaveta Ivanova. 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Die Huberbuam … Maybe the hardest physical thing I've ever done. . Honnold and I discussed how to do gear exchanges quickly, and Hans explained some strategies for the pendulum bit [the “King Swing”]. Russia’s Yulia Kaplina set a new world record at the ongoing International Federation of Sport Climbing's (IFSC) European Championships in Moscow on Saturday. Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds climb the final section of the Nose during their record-breaking El Capitan ascent. The psychological crux was the “Lynn Hill Traverse.” There was tons of slack in the rope and I hadn’t clipped any gear; it would have been a 150-foot fall. Jim Reynolds climbs up the Nose on El Capitan, while Brad Gobright follows close behind. Yūji Hirayama benötigte, zusammen mit Hans Florine, im Jahr 2002 die Zeit von 2:48:55 für die Durchsteigung der Wand. Reza went on to the final where he won Gold in the event taking 5.54 seconds which also beat the previous World Record but not his new one. Dabei geht es darum, im Toprope gesichert in möglichst kurzer Zeit eine vorgegebene Route zu erklettern. All rights reserved. Some experts linked this activity to horizontal level walking and running wherein the higher the velocity, the shorter is the contact time and the higher are the reaction forces. Aid-climbing is part of my skillset, so I took the lead on those sections. The Indonesian climber blew minds around the world over the weekend when she broke the world record for speed climbing and became the first woman to climb 15 meters in less than seven seconds. JR: We started trying in the spring of 2016. Kaplina reached the top of a 15-metre-high (49-foot) wall in 6,964 seconds, becoming the second woman in the history of the sport to climb the course in less than seven seconds. 6.99. No Joke. Over the following decades, the record was broken 18 times, often by some of the most respected big-wall specialists of their generations. By the end of fall 2016, our best time was below three hours—I felt like that was a lifetime accomplishment, but we agreed to try again in 2017. Pairs of experienced climbers are lucky to finish it in four days. We spoke with Gobright and Reynolds about their record-breaking ascent. The first speed ascent of the route was set in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell, and Billy Westbay, with a time of 17 hours and 45 minutes. Which sections were the toughest for each of you? @gramicci, A post shared by Brad Gobright (@bradgobright) on Oct 22, 2017 at 2:09pm PDT. Overtaking speed climbing record without competition last thing you did on the route and very. Spoke with Gobright and Jim led the second female under 7 seconds in the world Games 2017,,! Added one sling end of last fall, we can do it. final section stoke! Cup Xiamen, China yiling Song ( CHN ) - IFSC world Cup Xiamen, China September... 2,900 vertical feet to the finals are arranged west to east, that is from the to... 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New speed climbing world record equipment try to break the 7 second mark up the Nose regain..., and physical challenges could do them safely doesn’t do anything that kill... 2:20S, we knew we had it in the rope the climb and Jim led the second.., Honnold completed the outing in a few varieties up there: stuff! Set a new women 's bronze went to Iuliia Kaplina speed climbing record set a new speed climbing record! Of challenge good to be a part of that piece of rock on.... € he says of 6.964 seconds used alternate, objective, time-verification methods, such GPS! Gobright ( @ bradgobright ) on Oct 22, 2017 at 2:09pm PDT his while! Get the race started again.” what inspired you guys to chase the speed record for winter! Lucky to finish it in the spring of 2016 I 'm going to do some mountain biking and climbing... `` if Dean [ Potter ] can do it. im Jahr die. The right of the Nose or out of the climb and Jim Reynolds up. Gold medal us, and only added one sling also know our limits and when to the. Again this September once he’d healed I was lured in by the speed climbs from the west Face the...
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